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Twinning with Trondheim

Synchronicity is an amazing thing. Like most people, these past few months have had their fair share of ups and downs, but one of the most unexpected positive developments has been that we have been learning Norwegian. Competitively. Against each other…like you do.

LOCKDOWN

It all started when we noticed my daughter was losing interest in her remote learning. After a good talk (tears may have been involved), we uncovered the underlying issue: ‘what was the point of doing schoolwork if you couldn’t be better than everybody else?’ (WHAT???) Turns out, she just needed her competitive drive activated, so in a rash attempt to get her motivated (wine may have been involved), I agreed to let her chose a random challenge and I would willing commit to act as a pacing horse. She decided we would learn to learn Norwegian. (Oh my stars what have a gotten myself into…)

So for weeks, we would sit in the kitchen, me at my desk and her at one the multitude of workstations at the table, while our devices would ping each other notification as to the other’s progress. We became obsessed.

Our online competition led us to watch Norwegian comedies, teen dramas and Youtubers to see if we could understand a bit more of the language and culture that we had been oblivious to just weeks before. As Norway is a beautiful place, the internet abounds with great video tours of the major cities of Olso, Bergen and the routes of travel in between.

Which brings us to Trondheim, the Norwegian city twinned with our hometown of Dunfermline. After virtually touring all the usual hot spots, my curiosity about what our twin was like compared to the major cities was piqued.

Turns out…IT. IS. STUNNING! An absolute gem of a place and a great story behind our cultural links.

EXPLORING TRONDHEIM

Nidaros Cathedral – Burial place of King Olaf II (reign 995-1030) who later became the Patron Saint of Norway

Trondheim is Norway’s third-largest city and is located about halfway up its landmass where the country becomes super skinny. It was founded in 997 by King Olaf Tryggvason and was the capital from the Viking Age until 1217. From 1152 to the Reformation in 1537 it was also recognised as the spiritual capital with the seat of the Catholic Archdiocese. Since then it still serves as the seat of the Lutheran Nidaro Diocese.

It sits on the Trondheim Fjord and is surrounded by rich farmland supporting an innovative local food scene. Although full of charm and heritage, by all accounts it is a bustling, youthful, international city thanks to the main campus of NTNU or Norway’s premier University for Science and Technology, with two Nobel Prize winners currently on staff. (So far, this place is ringing all my bells.)

TWINNING

So what does one city being ‘Twinned’ with another mean?

The links between Scotland and Norway go back over a thousand years from trade in the time of the Vikings to 1281 when the King Eric of Norway married Margaret, daughter of King Alexander III of Scotland, with their infant daughter ‘The Maid of Norway’ serving as Queen of Scotland from 1286 to 1290. I would be remiss if I did not also highlight the island communities of Shetland and Orkney were under the Crown of Norway from the 9th to the 14th centuries and played a crucial role in the trade of the Hanseatic League up until the Act of Union in 1707.

The Complete Story of the Bond of Friendship, Published in 2010 by the Dunfermline Trondheim Twinning Association

After WWI, the League of Help for Devastated Areas was formed encouraging British towns to adopt French communities that had been embattled to provide supplies such as clothes and tools to help rebuild. The belief being by doing this the British could not only express a debt of gratitude but also promote bonds between local and foreign communities. The hope was that this would foster understanding and prevent any future large scale conflicts. Alas, the nascent goodwill was not enough to combat other forces at play.

During WWII the idea of Twinning was revived, but interestingly this specific ‘Bond of Friendship’ predates any official program. As much as the British populous had sacrificed and endured, there was an awareness that at least they had not had to live under an occupying force. After the British and American allied invasion of 1944, hope began to blossom that perhaps the war might just be coming to an end and the desire to do something was strong.

The idea of a Bond was first introduced to Dunfermline by a young Dutch sailor, S.A. Beyer-Pederson who was serving with the British Navy. He was able to present stories of the everyday peoples’ suffering and the courageous resistance in German-occupied countries, and his talk proved the spark of inspiration.

NORWAY DURING THE WAR

Norway’s experience during WWII was in a word, horrific. I am embarrassed to admit my previous ignorance on this topic relative to what was happening in other parts of Europe, but wow.

The Aksel, one of the fishing boats used in the early days of the Shetland Bus

Like it’s Scandinavian neighbours, Norway remained neutral in WWI and that remained their official policy during the 1930s. However, on the 10th of April 1940, Norwegians awoke to find their country overrun by a German invasion. The official Norwegian government led by King Haakon VII, along with his family fled the country aboard HMS Devonshire and sought exile in Britain for the duration of the war.

With the country occupied by German forces and run by the Norwegian Nazi Party, sadly the brutal reality of concentrations camps, internments, imprisonment and whole towns being razed for even minor transgressions ensued. The Resistance Movement was strong and remained so throughout the war, sustained in no small part by Operation Shetland Bus, which ferried supplies, munitions, soldiers and refugees from the mainland of Shetland to port towns all along the Norwegian coast.

(The story of the Shetland Bus is so extraordinary and heroic, it deserves it very own blog post so I promise to return to it. There are several acclaimed books on the topic as well.)

On the 8th/9th of May 1945, the German Troops surrendered in Norway. Just a few weeks later the Norwegian Royal Family and the official government left Rosyth Dockyard aboard on HMS Norfolk to return home, arriving in Oslo exactly five years from when they sought exile.

THREE LETTERS

But in 1945 the youths of Dunfermline were unaware that these extraordinary events would soon unfold. They had spent months researching areas in occupied countries that they wanted to support. After much debate, guidance from the Norwegian delegation in Edinburgh and Norwegian naval personnel stationed at Rosyth, Trondheim was selected.

The Program from the Adoption Night & the Bond of Friendship

At that time, Dunfermline and Trondheim were similar-sized towns of about 50,000, both were once the ancient capitals of their countries, both had premier medieval cathedrals, and had been the burial place of their nations’ sainted Royalty. On the 6th of May 1945, at an event attended by over 1,000 of Dunfermline Young People from a variety of organisations, they jubilantly voted to formally adopt Trondheim.

At the time of the event, Trondheim was still under Nazi occupation and completely unaware of the events taking place in Scotland.

BOND OF FRIENDSHIP

In June of 1945 the very first Allied ship to enter Trondheim since the German surrender arrived bearing a very special letter. Commander Phipps of HMS MacKay arrived from Rosyth and presented a framed invitation from Dunfermline Youth to the Mayor of Trondheim, Ivar Skjånes who had only recently been released from his five-year internment.

As was retold by his daughter and translator Bodil Skjånes Dugstad, her father was thrilled with a most memorable visit from the Commander and presented the framed Bond of Friendship that immediately went up on the wall of the Mayor’s Office.

Two subsequent letters arrived, one in February from the Dunfermline Carnegie Trust informing the Mayor that six large cartons Red Cross Comforts were on their way to the Trondheim Hospital, and an invitation for a group of young people to come and visit Dunfermline in the summer. The third letter arrived shortly after from Nettie Dick who was the Youth Officer for the Trust with information on the logistics of the visit.

The first group of Dunfermline Youth visiting Trondheim in 1948, all wearing the red caps of the Resistance

As unassuming as the third letter sounds, it was Nettie Dick who would facilitate and foster not only this first visit but over several decades would nurture the original as well as hundreds of relationships between the people of these two cities. On the 25th Anniversary of the Bond, she received St. Olaf’s Medal of Honour, the highest award in Norway for a foreign national, presented by the King Olaf V of Norway himself.

75^TH ANNIVERSARY

The Bond of Friendship and it’s subsequent visits, concerts and exchanges have continued for 75 years. Over that time as the original members have aged a few bright sparks have come along to rekindle the flames. The most recent of which was Gifford Lind, who had established the Dunfermline Trondheim Twinning Association in 1997 to continue the links. As 2020 was to be the 75th Celebration, a full itinerary of events had been scheduled for this May in Dunfermline with concerts in the Abbey, films, food and an exhibition covering the history. Sadly, like so much else – the Coronavirus had other plans.

As luck would have it, I was able to borrow a cache of images from the 70th celebration in Trondheim, that was also commemorating the 100th Anniversary of Norway’s independence from Sweden.

The Scottish Delegation arriving by boat to recreate the arrival of the HMS MacKay

A parade from the quayside to the presentation and lunch

Scottish Piper Jim Motherwell and several young women in the traditional Bunads. Each region tends to have its own distinct style. The blue with the grey apron is from Trondheim.

Honouring the fallen of WWII, many Scots are buried
within this cemetery and throughout Norway.

A MOMENT BECOMES A PLAN

So, bringing things back to our lockdown language competition. We are just about at the 90-day consecutive streak, and to mark my 75th-day, I sprung for a Norwegian keyboard! Ok, it is only three additional letters but as the sentences become more complex in the lessons, those wacky letters come thick and fast. Plus it’s just fun to be able to crank out an å, æ, or ø whenever the mood may strike.

And my daughter? Well, Covid-dependent we are planning a trip to Trondheim in February to visit this place, which is now her top choice of University to study Economics. Life is funny, heh?

NTNU – Norges teknisk-naturvitenskaplige universitet

So thank you for coming along on this wild ride. There are so many more interesting chapters to this story, but they can be explored another day. For now let me leave you with a cool, quick, two-minute video tour of Trondheim to see for yourself. Cheers!

PS Huge thanks to Helen Law for her generosity in sharing images, information and recollections to make this post possible. Tusen Takk.

Sep 04, 2020 | 2 comments View Post

Plant a Tree

Today, my heart is so heavy I am tempted to hide away and let the horror of this past week’s events wash over me. But as I lay in bed scrolling through the recent headlines, I have my young son snuggled up next to me and I know that isn’t an option. Not for me, not for him, not for any of us.

So today, I am going to plant a tree. It may not be much but for me, it will be a radical act of defiance as well as profound investment in hope.

None of us knows if that actions that we take today will ultimately bear fruit. I think that is part of some of the inherently flawed thinking that has gotten us into so much trouble in today’s world. We tell ourselves ‘I am only going to go something if I can be guaranteed my desired outcome’ or the more sanitised but equally dangerous shorthand, ‘what will be the return on my investment?’ We have embraced short-term (personal, tangible) gain for far too long and not seen investment as something that we may never personally reap but that is far, far more important than our own lives or immediate rewards.

I wonder if, in all the brilliance of Dr Martin Muther King, he got something very wrong. So inspiring is the quote ‘The arc of the moral universe is long, but it bends toward justice.’ that President Obama had it woven into a rug in the oval office. But did such a noble concept inadvertently allow complacency to take root instead? Did we as a larger society think that because progress had been made on some fronts that those steps could never be undone? That because society was perceived to be on the path of steady improvement, we could be assured it would stay so with minimal input? Did it allow those with privilege to belittle and ignore the cries of injustice from those still suffering under an unequal system, dismissing their plight by telling them and ourselves to just be grateful as it is so much better than it was back in the day? Did we not realise how fragile the ties that hold a society together were?

The violent and hateful actions that we are seeing splash across our media channels this week had their seeds planted long ago. Some hundreds of years ago, some more recently crossed with new strains of threatened entitlement and notions of false victimhood, all whilst still controlling all meaningful institutions of our society and economy. But just as those roots run deep, so too can we tap into the strength of that which has come before us and cultivate our own efforts to restore balance and health to our societal environments.

I wanted to summarise this concept into my own words but upon googling the topic for clarity, I think this gentleman’s explanation is more appropriate.

Seventh Generation

From Seann Sweeny Blog post on Native Insight

“Many of us have heard of the term ‘seventh generation.’ The words come from the Constitution of the Iroquois Nation.

A common, summarized and short version of ‘seventh generation’ derived from the Constitution of the Iroquois Nation that most of us have heard of is ‘In every deliberation, we must consider the impact on the seventh generation… even if it requires having skin as thick as the bark of a pine.’ The Constitution of the Iroquois Nation (The Great Binding Law) explains ‘seventh generation’ philosophy as follows: ‘The thickness of your skin shall be seven spans — which is to say that you shall be proof against anger, offensive actions and criticism. Your heart shall be filled with peace and goodwill and your mind filled with a yearning for the welfare of the people of the Confederacy.

With endless patience, you shall carry out your duty and your firmness shall be tempered with tenderness for your people. Neither anger nor fury shall find lodgement in your mind and all your words and actions shall be marked with calm deliberation. In all of your deliberations in the Confederate Council, in your efforts at law making, in all your official acts, self-interest shall be cast into oblivion. Cast not over your shoulder behind you the warnings of the nephews and nieces should they chide you for any error or wrong you may do, but return to the way of the Great Law which is just and right. Look and listen for the welfare of the whole people and have always in view not only the present but also the coming generations, even those whose faces are yet beneath the surface of the ground — the unborn of the future Nation.’

This philosophy is not unique to just the Iroquois nation. Many Native American nations and tribes and other indigenous people around the world have and still do live by this philosophy as well. They may not explicitly call it ‘seventh generation’ thinking but it is evident through their oral (and now written) histories, actions, and ways of life that they share this important, virtuous and selfless way of life as well.”

Can you even imagine if all our elected officials – on both sides of the Atlantic – steeled themselves with skin as thick as seven layers of pine bark to give them the strength to do the right thing for not just the present society but also the unborn future of their nations?!

It is understandable to feel overwhelmed when hatred and violence burst forth in ways not familiar to many in today’s world. But as important as it is to grieve, to mourn and to feel fear, let us also endeavour to plant seeds of investment for a better future that we may not personally benefit from. Yes, support the ACLU and protest and vote. Yes, organise for the vulnerable in your communities and for better public and environmental policies immediately. But also, even if it just to combat rising feelings of helplessness and despair, invest in something with an unknown outcome that fosters hope.

So, I am off to the garden centre to find some seeds. Maybe they will be for wildflowers, or fruit trees or a mighty oak. And I will go into my local woodland and do what I can in hope that one day some insect, animal or human may benefit. And I will never know, but it will have been worth it to know that maybe, just maybe my actions today could bring nourishment, joy or shelter to another at some unknown point in the future.

So today, in the face of despair…I need to choose hope. It may seem small and futile but perhaps if we all saw investment in the future with a view longer than our own personal benefit, we may just make the horror of today’s headlines less able to take root and deny them the toxic nutrients that they need to thrive today.

Oct 28, 2018 | 0 comments View Post

The Fantastic Elastic Nature of Love

Suffice to say that my heart has run the gamut of Olympic level emotion this past week.

Romantic Love

I had the incredible honour of attending my niece Allie and her new husband Calvin’s wedding in Vermont. I love all weddings but this one, in particular, was extra fun as almost half of our immense family was there for their first kiss almost ten years ago. Allie and Calvin’s love story began as a High School ‘Showmance’ and even us Hottie Scotties were present due to our one and only trip home for Thanksgiving when I was pregnant with my son. Can you imagine the pressure of knowing that your family, that easily comprised a quarter of the entire audience were all leaning forward in their seats with bated breath to see if the scripted kiss would be on the cheek, or *gasp* actually be planted on the lips?!

Through the years this wonderful couple has grown and overcome so much, especially in the face of Allie’s chronic Lyme Disease. She has not only written her first book, Suffering the Silence about this epidemic, but has gone on to found a non-profit of the same name to serve as a platform for so many others who suffer from often invisible diseases. They are both total rock stars!

Love of Place

The event was held at their family home in Vermont. The Cashel Family have moved numerous times and even between countries over the decades but this home has been a constant for them.

In preparation for the wedding, they got everything all spruced (or cedared) up, which made Michael, the father of the bride in particular beyond happy. My wee family has had the privilege of staying here several times over the years as well and has always been a source of great warmth and comfort. (File image under #WeSoYankee!)

Love of an Event that Reflects your True Nature

It was a beautiful event that was a great reflection of the couple and the families that love them. It was simple, authentic, and unabashedly emotional. I have never seen so many bridesmaids cry during the whole ceremony (which was officiated by Conor my nephew and Allie’s brother), but someone else who was standing at a different vantage point said, “that was nothing, you should have seen the groom’s side!”

Love of Proud Parents & Grandparents

Now, lots of people both feel and enjoy strong emotions at a wedding, but considering that much of the family are not prone to big public displays of affection, it was all the better.

Love is Love!

Everyone was feeling the love and enjoying themselves, even my sister Liz and her wonderful wife Beth! It was only a handful of years ago that these two finally were able to have their own legal celebration, on the 20th anniversary of their first date. (Let’s all make sure it stays that way, m’kay!)

Young Love

I also really enjoyed seeing my now adult nieces and nephews and to get meet their significant others. To see them all so happy with such lovely partners is a real treat considering many of these guys were about ten years old when I moved abroad! With any luck, I may have some more excuses to come home in years to come. *wink, wink*

(I thought being an Awkward Auntie was one of the great joys of life, that is until my daughter reached the age of adolescence where my sheer existence causes her to cringe with embarrassment. Mwahahahahah!)

Love of New Life

But meeting this wee dude in person was a real highlight of the trip. This gorgeous bundle of cuteness is Cole, my niece Katherine & her hubby Matt’s baby, who is the first of this next generation. My God those cheeks, that smile…what else can you say?!

Although thrilled at this guy’s existence, it does officially make me a ‘Great-Aunt’ which is slightly disturbing as I still associate that term with somewhat stern elderly ladies with grey perms, hearing aids and serious neglect of the need for decent breast support.

Love of Nature’s Beauty

The day itself was overcast and a bit damp, but the rain held off for the ceremony and the sun broke through to illuminate a cracking cocktail hour.

Love of a Great Sunset

And its warm rays stayed out until it had a proper chance to show off and illuminate the entire sky an amazing array of pinks and purples. As the tent had a clear roof we could all savour the beauty as we sat down to our dinner.

Four Generations of Love Shaking Their Booty

The night continued with all the usual joy and merriment one would expect. But for me, perhaps a bit of a combination of jet lag, an acute awareness of how far away I live from so much of my tribe and just a bit of awe at the beauty of the setting, I found myself uncharacteristically just wanting to sit back and drink it all in.

For it is not often you get to see people you held as babes in arms, dancing proudly with their own wee bundles surrounded by sisters, mothers and grandmothers and great granddads. Just magic.

The Purest Love Possible

But as oft happens, just when you are basking in the moment of one emotion that ole needle on the record of life will scratch loudly announcing an unexpected change of tune.

I awoke joyfully on Sunday morning and posted some happy pictures on Facebook, which was the cue that a dear friend who was watching my beloved Luna had been waiting. “Could you please find a quiet moment to call me,” was her gentle message, hoping to help prepare me for a terrible shock.

This kind soul had the awful task to inform us that our most magnificent dog (she has my dog’s sister, so is an official canine Aunt) had unexpectedly and very suddenly experienced a fatal abdominal bleed out two nights earlier. My friend had provided the very best care and made sure that Luna was surrounded by love and comfort, but alas there was nothing that could have been done. She very bravely and very kindly held onto to the news so that we could enjoy our wedding, but the time had come.

The Everday Goofiness of Love

As we had a very long journey home that day we, in turn, held off telling the kids so that they could have few more minutes in the glow of wonderful family event and be safely back in their own home before letting them know what had happened.

FYI, jet lag and grief are a rotten combination.

In a small stroke of fortune, this is our October Holidays so the kids don’t have to go to school as we come to terms with our loss, after all, it can take a bit to adjust to all the residual momentum of your routine.

(Check out my ace gardening skills, I can grow rosemary, a badminton racquet AND a terracotta pot!)

The Heartbreak of Lost Love

As sad as we are to have lost such a huge part of our life, we’re all in agreement that even the (now) brief time we had with her was all totally worth it – even the heartache.

And we are so very thankful that we were able to travel to the States to take part in such a happy event.

Love of a Familiar Haven

So here we are, tucked back up in our wee cottage in Skye, to rest our weary hearts and take a moment to remember that much of what makes life and love so very special is their inherently fragile nature.

Love of Epic Landscapes

And something about walking along the quiet beaches of not only an ancient landscape but also a place that has endured a pretty spectacular amount itself over the past several hundred years provides a wonderful reminder that another day will indeed come.

So all that is left is just count the blessings you have today and enjoy every drop of love in your life, whatever form you may find it in.

Love. x

Oct 15, 2017 | 1 comment View Post

Lapland Adventures – Santa!

The part of the Finland that we visited was in Kaaresuvanto, which is in a narrow northern arm of the country that borders both Sweden and the coast of Norway. In fact the ‘town’ spans a river into Sweden where it name changes to Karesuando (famed for knives apparently). Any way you slice it, it’s up there as in 180 miles north of the Arctic circle up there!

As previously mentioned in Snow & Huskies, there is only about three hours of ‘daylight’ at this time of year but that is a brief window of perpetual dawn/dusk. Whilst the landscape is stark the skies are magic.

This region is also home to the Sami people also known as Lapps, a nomadic indigenous peoples whose territory spans Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. As fascinating as their culture is, we didn’t delve too much into that side of things on this visit. No, this was serious British Santa holiday geared for kids with a non-stop soundtrack to Love Actually. The upside is that now we have a reason to revisit, perhaps in a different season.

What little light there was, painted some impressive views during the daytime and we even got to see the beginning of the Northern Lights one evening at the Lodge. This image is looking across the river from Finland to Sweden.

This is the very photogenic (and oft photographed) northern most church in Sweden built in 1816. It is the defining building of the area for both the Swedish and Finnish areas.

Other than our Lodge, on our side of the river there were three buildings that made up the town. One for locals,

one for tourists,

and a pub that we dare not enter.

But again, we where here for the outdoors and to see Santa so we spent the entire next day doing just that. When you arrived at the day’s destination, you were greeted by a line of light torches that guided you through the woods.

Until you arrived at the Northern Lights Lodge. It was just a nice place to pop into warm up, get a drink or use the facilities but everything else here was outside.

Of which we wasted no time in doing as we rode the mini snowmobiles,

dare devil-style for my daughter,

and savoured the setting.

There was tobogganing, ice hockey, snow mobiles for young and old and generally everything you would want for a cracking snow day.

Finally, it was time to go find Santa. We were packed into a wooden sleigh lined with reindeer skins and were then covered in blankets. We were pulled by a snow mobile for about 15 minutes through the woods as we all sang Sleigh Bells at the top of our lungs.

But deep into the woods we came to a stop, and everything became very hushed. Our driver went to warm himself,

whilst we were introduced to our next mode of transportation. Real, live, (very ornery) reindeer that were to take us even deeper into the woods to find Santa.

There are few moments in life that actually take your breath away, but this was one of them for sure. We packed the kids into on of the sleighs (who looked very cute), and then ourselves into the other (definitely not so cute).

About 10 minutes later we pulled up to a wooden house with an outdoor fire and tapers leading to the door. The elves ran out and greeted the kids by name (who were completely gob-smacked) and knocked on the door.

And inside next to a roaring fire was the man himself. He knew all about Niamh’s broken wrist and foot and even knew that Ronan had just received his Bronze award for good behaviour. The cameras were acting up due to the freezing temperatures but mama stifling tears behind the lens didn’t help either!

It was everything we hoped for and more. The setting, the activities, the adventures was all worth every bit. After several hours of all this outdoor fun, we returned to a huge festive meal and a disco for the kids.

We had a few hours to do some elective activities such as ice-fishing or reindeer herding the next day, but my group had reached its limit and just enjoyed the area around the Lodge. Soon it was time to say goodbye to our snowy retreat and head back to the land of the driving rain.

But the memories will last for a lot longer, and they are all very happy (and very appreciative) ones!

I can’t quite believe we still have actual Christmas to celebrate, but for my wee family this one is for the record books!

Merry Christmas!!!!!!!

Dec 18, 2015 | 1 comment View Post

Lapland Adventures – Snow & Huskies

Have you ever arrived at an airport at 7:30 am on a pitch black rainy December morning and all you see are smiles? Particularly odd when you consider the prospect of a sun holiday does not await. No, in this queue there was an abundance of garish Christmas sweaters and Santa hats, because we were off to the North Pole in Lapland to see the big man himself!

Pure excitement does not describe and the adults were maybe more excited than the kids. There were babes in arms, under-ten’s galore and a few multi-generational families for lucky grandparents in the know.

Upon entering the aircraft, you were greeted by a crew of gorgeous Finnish women each sporting the requisite Santa hat.

Even the plane itself had been decorated with large holiday themed decals.

I felt inclined by instinct to roll my eyes but I couldn’t, instead I fought back a few renegade tears that snuck out. It was all just too fabulous.

Even the most jaded Scrooge could not be moved to delight as the plane took off in a gusty rain storm to the ecstatic squeals of the nervous but excited passengers, 75% of which are between three and nine years old. No doubt for many it is their first ever plane journey. There was even Christmas music once we are at cruising altitude. After a few hours we began our decent through the clouds. Another round of happy shouting ignited with my favourite declaration of, “Just look at all those Christmas Trees” when greeted with the Finnish landscape.

When we arrived in Finland it was only 12.30 our time but 3.30 Finnish time which meant it was completely dark. You only get about three hours of ‘daylight’ at this time of year but that only adds to the sense you are somewhere very remote, very cold and very snowy.

A cosy coach ride takes you to your destination in just under 45 minutes.

For me it was hard to tell if it was just super 70s-tastic or just very Finnish but it was clean and warm and fabulous.

In the main lodge there are two huge common rooms, one being the dining room with a bar and lounge, and the other being the group events/ kids room with lots of couches and movies on hand all day.

Once you are settled into your rooms and have gone through your welcome speech, you are sent through a lovely lit walk through the woods.

To where you get suited and booted – quite literally. The temperature was between -12 C and -30 C and most Brits just don’t have that kind of gear laying about.

The meals were simple but hearty and the kids enjoyed their first visit from Santa’s elves after dinner for some songs and to distribute some reindeer dust.

When morning light finally arrives about 10.30 am you are treated to a breathtaking landscape.

It was much flatter than I expected but a beautiful winter wonderland nonetheless. Ok, it kind felt like you had stepped into an Ikea catalogue.

And speaking of which, have you ever wondered why Ikea lights were so flipping dim? Well, when seen in the context of proper Nordic blackness they actually shine like solar flares!

Anyway, we were here to enjoy the outside and the first day was all about the huskies and sledding. Now this was one of my bucket list items so I was beside myself with excitement.

Aside from the cold, your senses are then challenged by sound as the noise from the dog teams is just unbelievable! Three sleds each with ten dogs all barking insanely into what is otherwise a pristinely quiet landscape can knock your sock off!

The dogs strained anxiously in anticipation of us slow moving humans to get our act in gear and hop aboard the sleds.

Each family is taken in turn, but there is a traditional Sami tent with fire inside for a warm up while you wait. They even serve you hot Glogge, the local spiced black current drink.

These were cruising sleds versus racing ones, and could have easily fit about eight people on each.

Someone in particular was in her element, a future Iditarod contender for sure!

Finally, it was our turn to head out.

Amazingly, the second the dogs begin to run they go silent. In an instant you are racing away with only the rush of the runners in the snow beneath you. I could easily see how this could become addictive.

So, our Arctic adventure was properly under way and we were having a great time. Little did we realise how much more spectacular the next day would be as we went in search for Santa himself!

Dec 17, 2015 | 2 comments View Post

Ssamjang Coleslaw (Trust Me!)

Every now and again, you happen across a combination of flavours that is just so delicious you honestly wonder how you made it this far in life with them. So if you are looking for the extra something to jazz up your palate, look no further than the magnificent Ssamjang.

It is the traditional dipping sauce that most often accompanies Bulgogi but its uses should really know no bounds. This would be fantastic mixed with a bit of mayo or as a sauce for wings. I have used it both in its traditional form and them as a dressing for coleslaw and can highly recommend both.

The ingredients for Ssamjang are not complicated but may not be available in every grocery store. The good news is that gives you an excuse to foray deeper into your Asian markets (or order online in a pinch) to get these two essential components of Korean Hot Pepper Paste and Fermented Bean Paste. They come in these petite tubs and seem to be standard according to colour, so even if you can’t read the labels just get a red one and a tan one.

I make quite a lot of vegetarian food and these are both brilliant additions to bring a deep, rich Unami dimension to many meatless foods. They are not terrible expensive and will make you very happy.

Once you have procured your Hot Pepper Paste and Fermented Soy Bean Paste just add some honey, sesame oil, sesame seeds and garlic.

Mix thoroughly and transfer to a serving dish, garnishing with more sesame seeds.

Place along side a bowl of Basmati rice, lettuce leaves, sliced vegetable and fresh cooked Bulgogi for a traditional Korean treat,

or mix up with a bit of rice wine vinegar and vegetable oil for a western wrap. Both are delicious and a great way to try using new ingredients.

Enjoy!

Ssamjang Coleslaw (Trust Me!)

Ingredients

Traditional Ssamjang:
30 ml/ 2 Tablespoons Fermented Soybean Paste (Doenjang)
15 ml/ 1 Tablespoon Hot Pepper Paste (Gochujang)
15 ml/ 1 Tablespoon Honey (or Golden Syrup)
1 clove/ 5 ml/ 1 tsp garlic, minced
2.5 ml/ 1/2 teaspoons Sesame Seeds
For Coleslaw, make traditional Ssamjang and add:
15 ml/ 1 Tablespoons Rice Wine Vinegar
50 ml/ 1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/2 head of cabbage
1 carrot, julienned
1/4 white onion, finely shredded

Instructions

Make up the traditional recipe for Ssamjang.
Add the rice wine vinegar & vegetable oil for coleslaw and mix well.
In a large bowl place shredded cabbage, julienned carrot and sliced onion.
Pour the coleslaw dressing over the vegetable mix.
Toss to combine and refrigerate until ready to use.
Warning: Will be totally addictive and will having you make on a regular basis!

https://albaliving.com/2015/08/ssamjang-coleslaw-trust-me/

Aug 13, 2015 | 0 comments View Post

Bulgogi (Korean Beef BBQ)

Ok, so after a summer of shockingly bad weather it’s time to try to BBQ. (Don’t worry if it doesn’t last as this works just as well indoor in a fry pan.)

So to get your taste buds going again, here is my version of the super yummy Korean Beef BBQ or Bulgogi.

Traditionally, it is served in series of components that each individual packs and wraps in a lettuce leaf. I will show you both this, the legit way and my jazzed up Western version for lazy sods.

The marinade for the beef (or mushrooms if vegetarian, or both if you are me) is very simple. I will be a stickler on two points however. You must, and I mean must use a pear in your marinade. Its acidity helps to break down the meat to make it incredibly tender and also adds just the right amount of sticky sweetness. The other point is that you MUST puree the pear (by fair means or foul) to get it to do its magic.

So just chuck the ingredients into a container suitable for a blender or stick blender and blitz away.

Pour the mariande over your goodies to be grilled and mix thoroughly. Cover and chill until you are ready to cook. Try to ensure that you have at least 30 minutes but even better several hours to marinate for best results.

Now, while your beef or mushrooms are marinading you can whip up the most divine dipping sauce known as Ssamjang. It it what is usually served with Bulgogi and perfectly balances the flavours. For real, this stuff is crazy good so don’t be afraid to make loads!

When it comes close to cooking time arrange the Ssamjang, a bowl of basmati rice, a platter of washed lettuce leaves and some freshly sliced vegetable such as onion and carrot. Fry or BBQ the meat in batches and present to your family and guests to make their own parcel.

A note of caution: apparently the making of a parcel for another person is seen as a very intimate act, particularly between the sexes. It is fine for a parent to make one for a child or elderly relative, but under no circumstance should you make one up for another adult unless you are expressly trying to express romantic intent! (Top Tip.)

And while the wee lettuce wraps are a delicious delight, they are a faff. So, as I can never leave well enough alone I mixed the Ssamjang with a touch of rice wine vinegar and vegetable oil and used it as a dressing to make a Korean inspired coleslaw.

Now you can pack way more good stuff into a burrito and sidestep the whole social morass of lettuce parcel construction. 🙂

Welcome back BBQ Season, we have all missed you terribly!

Bulgogi (Korean BBQ) with Ssamjang Coleslaw

Ingredients

500 grams/ 1 pound beef, thinly sliced
250 grams/ 1/2 pound mushrooms, thinly sliced
30 ml/ 2 Tablespoons sesame seeds
2.5 ml/ 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, coarsely crushed
10 grams/ 1/4 cup spring onions (scallions), sliced
1 small pear, de seeded & diced
75 ml/ 5 Tablespoons soy sauce
30 ml/ 2 Tablespoons toasted sesame oil
30 ml/ 2 Tablespoons brown sugar
30 ml/ 2 Tablespoon garlic, minced
30 ml/ 2 Tablespoons ginger, minced

Instructions

In a large bowl place the beef, mushrooms, sesame seeds & spring onions (scallions).
In a blender or a container for a stick blender place pear, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger & garlic.
Blend until smooth and pour over the contents of the bowl. Mix to combine, cover and refrigerator for 30 minutes to 24 hours.
To cook: heat a large skillet or a BBQ with a vegetable basket until very hot with a small amount of vegetable oil. Working in small batches, add the meat and mushroom mixture to pan allowing to cook for 2-3 minutes before turning and 2-3 minutes more on the second side.
Transfer cooked Bulgogi to a large bowl or platter before adding the next batch to pan.
Repeat in small batches until complete.
Serve with Ssamjang, fresh vegetable and rice.
(Can also be served in a tortilla wrap with my ssamjang coleslaw).
Enjoy!

https://albaliving.com/2015/08/bulgogi-korean-beef-bbq/

Aug 13, 2015 | 0 comments View Post

Skye – See, Do, Love

The theme song from Outlander is known as the “Skye Boat Song” that recalls the escape of Bonnie Prince Charlie (dressed as a serving maid) with the aide of Flora McDonald. Interestingly, the words of the hit programme used are not the original ones, but rather a poem by Robert Louis Stevenson (of Treasure Island, Kidnapped & Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde fame), to fit the storyline better.

The result is a haunting success of two Scottish masterpieces.

Facing the harbour in Portree is the Royal Inn, formerly known as McNab’s Inn and was the indeed last meeting place of Bonnie Prince Charlie (of song) and his rescuer in 1746. This is but one wee example, that in addition to the landscape and wildlife, there is just so much history, culture and no small part of luxury that also define the beauty of Skye, I thought I would show you a handful of other sights.

History abounds everywhere but no where more so than the spectacular Dunvegan, home of the Chief of Clan MacCloud for over 800 years.

You can’t take picture inside, but I was only told that after I managed this snap of the family’s emblem of a bull and their motto “Hold Fast”. Dunvegan is also home to the famed “Fairy Flag” that was to have been given to the MacClouds by Titania, wife of Oberon, King of the Fairies.

(Please just pause for a moment and enjoy that I live in a country whose national animal is the Unicorn and boasts a national treasure of Fairy Flag. Beat. That!)

Of course, you can’t go to Skye without a tour of the Talisker Distillery. They don’t let you take pictures of the huge copper kettles and inner workings, but you do get a taster at the end so, hey ho!

You also get to see single malt ageing away in their cosy casks. These one have been here since 1979 so this is destined to be the very, very, very good stuff.

So good, you can even buy a bottle of 35 year old Talisker for the bargain price of £525 (or just under $1,500) per bottle!

In addition to world class whisky, Skye is also known for its food and luxury accommodations. This is the Kinloch Lodge, run by Claire and Godfrey MacDonald which was recently names as one of the 25 best small hotels by Conde Nast Traveller Magazine.

You have to just love the whole Highland Lodge thing where antlers adorn just about everything. Fabulous as it was, we didn’t dine at the Kinloch,

but we did at this next beauty of Flodigarry Hotel. Another fantastic spot that even comes with its own helicopter landing pad for the extra, extra posh!

But these wee building is the gem in the culinary crown of Skye.

This is this the Three Chimneys Restaurant a world renown Michelin starred restaurant with 5 Star Luxury Accommodations

While the interiors where very simple the smell that were emanating from the kitchen as it prepared for service were just sublime.

As my kids were with me I wasn’t able to dine here (yet). But I think I keep it in mind for the next big birthday that ends in zero…..

Skye also boasts its own brewery,

and is a virtual hot bed of artists, artisans and crafts of all kinds.

I couldn’t resist, sorry!

An believe it or not folks, this just barely scratched the surface of all that Skye has to offer.

So, I am left to console myself with my memories and trying to come up to speed on a few more local delicacies until we can return again next autumn.

What can I say, but Get Thee to Skye!

Jun 10, 2015 | 0 comments View Post

Skye – Our Haven

Partly due to the unique circumstances of the past few years and partly because I seem to live life as if my head was on fire, when I finally awake on Skye I tend to feel like I have crash landed rather than just ‘arrived’.

But after a few cups of coffee and some deep breaths taking in the exquisite stillness that surrounds us, I am ready to head out.

For the next few days this is my daily commute for a morning paper (there is blessedly no internet in the cottage) and take in the sights.

Having lived most of my life either in or near large cities, I am always taken aback by how pristine everything seems out here. This photograph is actually looking downhill to the water which is so still it perfectly mirrors the sky!

As we round the corner on the indelicately named “Lump” we descend into the port of the town. According to Wikipedia, “The name for Portree in Gaelic is Port Rìgh translates as ‘king’s port’, possibly from a visit by King James V of Scotland in 1540. However this etymology has been contested, since James did not arrive in peaceful times. The older name appears to have been Port Ruighe(adh), meaning “slope harbour.”

The images from these posts span a few years, but this year we welcomed a new addition to our family our lovely Luna the Utonagan. She is beautiful, she is fabulous, and she is by far the biggest poser of our lot.

After breakfast we are all itching to jump in the car and head out to our usual sights. This is of course the majestic Old Man of Storr, a climber’s delight.

And to the vertigo inducing Kilt Rock, so named for it’s resemblance to the folds of that iconic Scottish fashion statement.

And then, of course straight up to the Quiraing, the northernmost summit on the Trotternish Pennisula. (I fear that my children will remember their entire childhoods being dragged up and around to these externally breezy sites!)

Now, since I know that few to no people outside of Scotland will have the foggiest idea how to pronounce this must see feature, on our return this year we saved the dessert from our cook out on the beach to aid our far flung cousins. So here we are with our delicious Meringues which is the closest thing to rhyme with Quiraing. (Luna is none to pleased to be denied this snack!)

We always need to stop by our favourite fossil place,

to reach back in time to see what used to walk around this same land and be inspired to find new examples.

The highlight of this year’s trip was a fantastic boat ride to see the local wild life.

(Please take a moment and look at how my 9 year old daughter is dressed, in October, on the open sea and compare that to how the other folks on our trip chose to clad themselves. She does not even have so much as a goose bump on her! I wonder if all those born North of the Wall have anti-freeze for blood?)

At first, our Luna was not at all sure that the liked being on a boat,

but she soon got over her nerves and joined in the excitement of the adventure.

Particularly when she could hear the sonar of the porpoises,

and began chatting with the seals,

and marvelled at the sheer scale of the newly reintroduced sea eagles.

We all had an absolute ball.

Upon hearing my accent I am often asked why I live in Scotland instead of the States. But when my kids get to roam so free,

to be mermaids,

to collect yummy things for dinner, and generally partake in such a magnificent landscape.

The answer is just a quiet nod just to say, “we love it here, thanks”.

May 10, 2015 | 0 comments View Post

Over the Sea to Skye

Like many folk out there I have been gorging on Outlander episodes (ooft!) and have found myself humming the theme tune, “Over the Sea to Skye…” throughout the day. It finally kick-started these next posts that have been marinating for two and a half years so I hope you enjoy.

Each autumn when leaves turn and the air get crisp my wee family packs up the car and head to the Isle of Skye for our October Holidays. It is a good six-hour drive from our house, but the journey is an adventure in itself with several beautiful and curious sites along the way.

The first turn that takes us out of our usual zone of travel is when we get off the motorway and head left past the Dalwhinnie Whisky Distillery. Most of the Scottish distilleries themselves are adorned with impressive architectural details. I confess I haven’t actually been to the one, nor even tasted their whisky (yet) but it is a welcome sight regardless and a promise of good things to come.

(I am sure it has been done, before but I do feel an obligation to do some dedicated blogs on distilleries because they are just fabulous. Hey, it’s a tough gig but someone has to do it!)

Dalwhinnie is classed as one of the Speyside Single Malts and this distillery dates to the 1890s. The sight of the structure cheers me immensely whenever I see it because it triggers the promise of adventure at the start of the journey and the last road mark to know I am in the home stretch on the return.

Right after the distillery you know for sure your are in the High-lands Baby. Huge mountains, forests, lochs, rivers and tons of moorland abound. It is all about the wilderness here until you hit the beautiful town of Spean Bridge and it’s most atmospheric Commando Monument.

This impressive statue was unveiled by the Queen Mother in 1952 to honour the original British Commandos of WWII whose training camp was founded at nearby Achnacarry Castle in 1942. The rugged terrain and harsh climate proved a perfect sight to train this elite element of the army during such an intense period of war. It has become one of Scotland’s best known statues as it serves both as a memorial and a tourist attraction.

As you weave your way through the vast and seemingly empty landscape, you then come across this odd diddy. In a layby on the A87 overlooking Loch Loyne there is a bizarre collection of small piles of rocks known as cairns.

Traditionally cairns mark a location of a path or sometimes a burial site, but these have literally sprouted up over that last decade or so. After a fair bit of research, it appears that this is simply a modern craze, aided by tourists in an accessible location with yet another stunning view.

So take a moment to savour the beauty of it all, and file this under “People are Weird but Wonderful” before continuing on your merry way.

And you know that you are getting close to Skye when you see this emerging from the bend in the road. This is Eilean Donan, one of the most photographed of all of Scotland’s castles. For those of you who recognise it but can’t place where I will give you a hint, “There can be only one”!

Right after Eilean Donan you come into the port town of Kyle of Lochalsh. This used to be where you would get the ferry to Skye before they built the Skye Bridge in 1992.

This was my first view of the Skye Bridge which I thought would be bigger to be honest. I quickly realised I was only seeing half of the structure as it used this handy island as a midway support and continues on again after to Skye itself. (So clever these Scots.)

So after five hours in the car we finally arrive on the island itself and everyone but me is thrilled by our first stop on our annual trip. My husband and kids happily march in through the central door, but I refuse and will only go into the tea room on the far left and wait.

Because it is only a flipping serpentarium for heaven’s sake! Initially opened in 1991 as a refuge for unwanted or exotic pets that had been illegally brought to the island it is now a booming exhibition centre. My husband and kids absolutely love this place, but I am here to relax and don’t need to be reminded that I am on an island with tons of slithery friends.

One more good jaunt up the road and we finally arrive in Portree.

Our wee stone cottage is as welcoming as cosy as we remember from the year before, and

the view from our front door helps to remind us that we made it once again. We have reached our haven.

Apr 18, 2015 | 0 comments View Post

The Book! Scotland: Celebrations & Soul Food

Well people, it is finally here. My dream, my joy, my very first book, Scotland: Celebrations & Soul Food. This is my around the calendar, around the country tour of Scotland’s unique celebrations, complete with history, photographs and of course recipes to give you the full flavour of each event.

For those of you who have ever wondered what it was like to write a book and bring it to publication, the process is remarkably similar to having an actual baby. You hold an idea in you head, then in your heart, then you get busy, then you are in complete denial, and then you realise you have zero idea what you are doing and wonder if it is all to late to back out now. Additionally, since it takes roughly twice as long as a traditional pregnancy you are therefore obligated to gain twice as much weight! (Just kidding.)

The Long Awaited Book Cover

But at long last the day arrives and you can hold your baby in your hands. I couldn’t believe how beautiful she was when she finally arrived. I carefully counted her pages and after some tea and toast, quickly retired for a nap in sweet relief.

The Burning of the Clavie

The book itself is packed with full-page images of many of the events. (Seriously people, you can not imagine how many things Scots can set on fire and in such an array of ways as to make a dragon blush!)

Layout with Handwriting, Text & Images

The production team at my publisher Matador were the most helpful, kind and creative support I could have ever hoped for. Everyone was fantastic, but my hero Terry Compton in particular just took my manuscript and ran with it, far exceeding my expectations. He combined a wide variety of image sizes with traditional text and then picked out the areas of ‘my voice’ to evoke a true travel journal feel. (I know a few of you have wondered if that is indeed my actual handwriting and the answer is ‘Let’s all Thank Heavens it is not’!)

Kelso Border Riding

Some of the events in the book are what you might expect in Scotland with bagpipe bands, kilts and castles…

Lerwick Jarl Squad

and some are decidedly unexpected but spectacular none the less.

The Burry Man of South Queenferry

And then there are some that are just so freaky no one believes you until you actually produce photographic evidence.

Christmas Carousel in Edinburgh

For each event in our rock ‘n roll calendar, there are pictures, history, and eyewitness accounts.

6.5 Pheasant, Bacon & Port Bridies - 400

Pheasant Bridies with Bacon & Port

And then I had to go and create a recipes, with seasonal and regional ingredients to try to evoke the spirit of the event.

The May Queen

So in order to honour the outrageous wildness of the Beltane celebrations,

Beltane Salmon on a Plank of Native Ash

There is a companion recipe of wild Scottish Salmon cooked on plank of Native Ash over an open flame (easy clean up for the dishes as well).

Jeantopia Unleashed!

Basically this is my absolute dream come true of travel, adventure, history, parties and food!

Now, all of this is fine and well when it is kicking around your head or even when you are typing it up in your own dining room. But when you have to then put it out there TO BE JUDGED BY OTHERS…the panic sets on hard.

My First Ever Review (*sniffs with pride*)

So it was with immense relief when (after I was brave enough to work up the courage to read it) my first ever review had some very nice things to say. (Just click on image for full size) And not that I don’t value the opinions of my family and friends, but these guys didn’t even know me so were under no obligation to spare my frayed feelings.

Glossy Magazine Review

And then, big glossy magazines started to fall through my letter box.

The Company My Baby Keeps

And I could see not only my baby being cheered on, but got to see her nestled in amongst her mates. (How am I ever going to cope with my actual children leaving the nest, really?)

Scots Heritage Magazine Review

And then, you realise that this wondrous dream has left your imagination and begun a life of its own. And it is really, pretty cool to watch.

Marketing Material Ahoy!

So we are on to the next phase of the adventure where we will be taking things on the road. With any luck you can catch us at one of our upcoming events at farmer’s markets, libraries and food festivals over the next few month.

In the mean time you can check out the official website for the book at www.jeanmuir.co.uk for any news or events.

Thank you to everyone out there for your support, patience, help and encouragement in bringing this project to fruition. It has been a total blast and hopefully will be the first of many such adventures!

Huge love, Jean

Feb 15, 2015 | 0 comments View Post

Cobb Portable BBQ

It’s cold, it’s dark and it’s January…let’s talk BBQ!

The BBQ you never knew existed to make your life complete.

For several years now I have been in hot pursuit of grilling perfection. From Beer Can Chicken to BBQ Pizza to Hot Smoked Salmon, and just about everything in between I have tried gas, charcoal, stove top, electric on just about every kind of device out known to grill-kind. Each had their strengths and weakness but none met my particular needs.

May I happily introduce you to the Cobb Kitchen in a Bag, all-singing and all-dancing best BBQ for yours truly! Not only is this just ridiculously marvellous in a multitude of ways, it properly hits the ONE mark that not of my other options did in that it is fully portable!

All the bits to the ‘Kitchen in a Bag

It comes all packed together and has well-designed, durable options (some non-stick) for cooking that allows you to make steaks, stews, pancakes, stir frys, bread and even slow roasts all in the this one package! And did I mention all of these babies can be popped into the dishwasher?! (The design of the bag might drive me to drink, but I am already hard at work on a bespoke replacement.)

One Grill to Rule Them All & to the Dump Consign Them!

So, after my usual OCD levels of research and testing, I can happily say that all of my previous outdoor cooking options are going to the wanted pages or the dump in my spring clean up – really, it is that good.

Gone are the singed arm hair explosions of the gas grill, gone is the routine grease and spider maintenance of the charcoal Weber, gone are the hours of dropping of hot ash from the wee kettle grill, and gone is the super smoky and likely toxic quick-lite packs for my camping BBQ that the moment the coals were grey, didn’t even stay hot enough to heat a hot dog all the way through. Happy days!

The Wondrous Cobblestone

Of the many aspects that makes this system so great is the fuel source. This is called a cobblestone and it is a compressed disk made from recycled coconut husks, impregnated with quick burning paraffin-free lighter fluid, and comes complete with vent holes for even burning. This bad boy can be easily lit in a windy outdoor setting, smoke for and be ready for use in just two brief minutes, AND stay hot for up to two hours. (Do I hear a round of applause people?)

The cobblestone in its handy basket

It sits in its little basket that is then placed in the stay cool base (more on that later) allowing you to boil water, make chilli and cook burgers all without ever having to reload or shift your heat source. In one fell swoop you have the speed and consistency of a gas grill with the real smoke-kissed taste of charcoal. It is also very quick and easy to extinguish.

Basic plate for high heat searing

Another beyond fabby design component is the stay cool base. The fuel source sits in a moulded insert that has a complete bottom and a moat which can hold liquid for steaming, can catch the run off fats from cooking or can hold and cook root veggies. There are vent holes that draw air in through the screen base and direct the flow to the cobblestone but keep the liquid and the ash separate from each other and contained in the base.

This means that if you find yourself on the beach cooking away and the tide comes in, simply pick up your Cobb and walk to to a new location. You can also use this on a boat, dock or tabletop without fear of singeing whatever may be underneath, but the more likely scenario for me is dashing for cover from a sudden rain shower!

Configuration for stir fry, stews or pad thai

There is also an extender ring that simply lifts your cooking surface away from the heat source so you can simmer as opposed to scorch your stews.

The stacked configuration for pancakes & cookies

This is how you would likely stack the bits if you wanted to make pancakes or cookies. Once the dome lid is placed on top it becomes a groovy convection oven. I should have paid a bit more attention to this option on my maiden voyage of using my Cobb outdoors but hey, live and learn.

Muirs go to Skye

The Cobb arrived just in time for our October holidays, when every year we pack up the car and head to the Isle of Skye to enjoy the general awesome gorgeousness of the place.

Aside from stunning landscapes, great food, culture and wildlife, the other main draw of Skye for my kooky bunch is its famed fossil-rich shores. No, really.

So, as we head to the outskirts of Staffin (Google it, I dare ‘ya) down a long isolated road we reach our day’s destination.

Staffin beach famous for Magladon fossils

Staffin beach famous for Megalodon fossils

A magnificent rocky coast line that has produced some of the best Megalodon fossils in Britain (haud me back)! Perhaps now you can begin to appreciate my obsession with having a cup of tea and a hot meal that I can whip in literally any location or weather.

Cobb goes to Staffin

Anyway, as always the landscape was breath-taking in the clear October sunshine and while the erstwhile fossil hunters and rock pool inspectors set about their business, I could get cracking.

The basic set up with non-stick surface.

I wasn’t 100% sure my BBQ would arrive before we left for our trip, so I just went to the market and picked up some ready-made burgers and chicken breast. Everything was easy to transport, the fuel lit quickly and only smoked for a minute or so as advertised, and I could get cooking with the basic grill plate straight away. This plate is the one that comes with all the models and has grooves to drain the fat away and to stop flare ups from bit dripping on the coals.

Having swithered about this model or a larger option I was also pleasantly surprised at how much cooking area there actually was on this thing. I could have easily made 6-8 decent sized burgers at once.

£3 Ikea tools from the kids department

There was an option to buy a set of non-stick mini BBQ utensils from the Cobb website for £35 but as I frequent Ikea way too often I was aware of a complete set of perfectly workable child-sized bundle of tongs, spatula, ladle, whisk and pasta spoon for £3. I bought these instead which worked fabulously and I can keep in the grill when not in use.

Spare racks come in handy

Another rookie choice was to bring the entire Kitchen in Bag with me instead of thinking what I just needed, but in the end several of the other racks and plates came in handy anyway.

Fossil hunter’s picnic perfection.

We were all very happy with the ease, speed and most importantly the flavour of how the Cobb performed on its trial run. So, I decided to push my luck and maybe show off a bit.

The secret finale

Having read all about the versatility of the BBQ I had secretly packed a chocolate chip cook mix. Seriously, how many fossil hunters have had hot chocolate chip cookies made for them? But hey, that’s just how we roll.

70s Poncho-mama insta-mixing with love.

I was trying to give the kids a chance to help in the home-made (open a packet and just add water) project, and I was so pleased with my Mama planning skills. With just a water bottle and a plastic spoon and a spritz of spray oil to the non-stick plate we loaded the cookies up, replaced the lid and waited just 4-6 minutes to flip.

Did I mention how hot it gets?

Which is when we discovered that they had burnt to a crisp! It had been easily over an hour since I had lit the coal and it was still hot enough to do this in 5 minutes. Well, that and the fact I should have put a few stacker plates in between…next time.

Spatchcock chicken to go

A night or two later we had great luck again as we made a spatchcock chicken with roast potatoes (in the moat beneath) and grilled asparagus.

Spooky camp fire stories

And the best part was that after we finished our meal we could gather sticks from the beach for wee camp fire for s’mores and spooky stories.

Guess the Prezzie…

I was so pleased that I added lots of extra bits to my Christmas list to even further my outdoor cooking enjoyment. Can you guess what one of my favourite gifts pictured here might be?

Santa’s Gourmet Prepper 🙂

Why, a collapsible silicon kettle of course, to go with the ultimate camping pot complete with clamping lid!

Well, that is just about everything you could ever want to know about my new BBQ. But when you live in a country with beautiful landscape, a family with a thirst for outdoor adventure and changeable (often pretty chilly) weather, I hope you can share in what a momentous discovery this has been for me.

Maybe a post with sledding, hot cocoa and beef stew might even be arriving soon?

Stay warm!

Jan 28, 2015 | 2 comments View Post

The Scottish Referendum

You can’t really have a blog about life in Scotland without addressing the Independence Referendum held this past week. Just is case you may not know me personally or can’t conclude from my previous writings, I am whole-heartedly in support of not just Scottish Independence but all movements that seek democratic self-determination.

It was the most amazing, exciting experience that I feel so privileged to have been able to part take in such of moment of history. The votes were cast and counted and things didn’t go our way. But because this wasn’t just a political campaign but a real grassroots social movement, like many others I don’t think this is the end of the story.

By all accounts I should feel devastated…but I don’t. Whilst having a wee chat with myself to try to explore if my reaction is one of shock, denial or just plain insanity a strange but very powerful knowing came over me. The clarity comes after reviewing the posts on social media expressing incredible relief and for calls to please let’s just accept this, hug and move forward together. “It is all over” friends, the media and the politicians say. “We asked the question and the matter has been settled for a generation, let’s discuss it no more.”

But as a woman I know something. And this knowing has given me great hope and a surprising sense of peace on this of all days.

Having been there myself and coached numerous others over time, I understand it is actually much harder to leave a relationship that is crappy but not horrific. When it is horrific people organise interventions, offer money and help you pack. When it is just crappy, people tell you to try harder. You tell yourself that if you try harder maybe they will stop being such jerks. I mean, it’s not like they beat you or anything, but the constant insults, belittling, and control over money does stink. When it is just crappy even your family and community do all they can to keep the norm, keep the peace, it’s not so bad is it? You just need to try harder.

When you try to express your frustration people are tempted to size you up and say, “You seem all right to me. Are you really going to throw this all away, take your kids out of school, give up everything you have worked for all these years and risk being an outcast just for the chance that things may be better?” After endless aurguments when your partner has told you you’ll be destitute, nobody would ever have you anyway, you’re worthless without them for the umpteenth time and even though you fight back, a part of you believes them.

And then you reach a point where you’ve had enough. You mean it this time and you have made up your mind. A teeny part of you maybe even starts to get excited by what the future may hold. A few adventures and opportunities may even await. You pack your bags, take the kids and head to a hotel or your Mum’s house. Then comes the pleading, the flowers and the promises to change, “weren’t we great together years ago? Can’t we get back there again? Can’t we try one…more…time?” And maybe because you’re tired, maybe it’s because the kids are crying that they want to go home, maybe your mother is still tut-tutting away in your head for what she sees as selfishness, you buckle and go back.

The No vote won by appealing to people’s fears of money, security and division in people’s communities. I hear people expressing a strong desire for change but from within the existing structure. Sure that structure is crappy, insulting and disrespectful but it’s our job to roll up our sleeves and clean it up, isn’t it? Make it fairer, more respectful, more equal…because that is what we were promised.

But I know a little something.

Once things come to this point, everyone recommits and tries their best for a while. It might last for a few months maybe even a few years. But before you know it you are back to the same old crappy dynamic. And then one day something happens that just encapsulates everything. Often it is not the big blow out that you would think, but a teeny thing. I experienced this myself and have heard it from scores of others.

Maybe they make a cutting remark without thinking. Perhaps they drain the bank account when they knew you needed that money. They hand you burnt toast. And when that one thing happens, you simply get up and walk out the door.

I wanted Scotland to have a great victory today. It would have been the right way to do it in a joyful, democratic, legal way with the whole world cheering us on. But too many in Scotland are still committed to the vision of what they wish the relationship with Westminster and Britain to be, and not how damaging only 45% of us seem to understand. The other 55% chose to return home to recommit one more time.

But it won’t last, not after coming to this point. It never does.

I have no faith that Westminster will deliver anything but more hardship for Scotland. And when those who voted No, those who so desperately just want to paper over the cracks, keep the peace, forget any of this ever happened, soon find themselves being served burnt toast yet again, well let’s just say that folks may just find themselves at a breaking point and things may come to a rather abrupt end.

I don’t think Scotland will ever have another referendum as we just had. I fear for those who are suffering at unfair cuts and chronic lack of investment whilst those who are the most well off do what they can to protect their own wealth and stability. But I know that the flowering of engagement, awareness and self-empowerment that has come about, whilst severely dented today will not just go away. As a student of history, as a human and as a woman I know this is not the end of the story for Scotland’s self-determination.

At this point I have no idea how or when Scotland’s Independence may come about, and I feel now that when it does it may just surprise us all. But while what we currently have now seems to be working for enough of us, it is really, really not working for far too many to be sustainable for very long.

So for not the first time in my life, I have a deep and profound sense of knowing that sometime soon everything is about to change. I wonder how it will all pan out.

I will be continue to use this blog to explore the food, history and lifestyle of Scotland, and I will move my political writings that have appeared on the Huffington Post and Wings Over Scotland to my new blog of NewScotGirl.com. Come visit me there is you are curious as to the next chapter of Scotland’s journey toward Independence.

Thank you for your patience!

Sep 22, 2014 | 0 comments View Post

Up Helly Aa – Additional Gems of Shetland

Apologies to all for the lateness of this post, but there have been big doings here in Jeantopia of which explanations will follow soon. Additionally, a very important bit of information in viewing these images is that I have very wonky ankles. May seem random information I know, but it does have relevance I promise. If you are in a rush, let me summarise the whole post by saying SHETLAND IS FABULOUS! Put it on your bucket list and get yourself up there sharpish. It rocks!

Ok, let’s starts with how to get to Shetland. There are only two ways to get to Shetland, 1) take a very expensive hour long flight from a major airport such as Edinburgh or London, or 2) brave the 12 hour journey on the ferry. As I was travelling under my own steam and needed to take my car for on-island mobility, I chose option 2. Being an ex-Yankee, I was only familiar with the general stink-pot class of maritime transport that dominates the New England ferry fleet. The very thought of a 12 hour journey in the open ocean ( let alone the North Sea in January) had me very nervous indeed.

So image my surprise as I left my car (as per usual on ferries) and got into an elevator (not at all per usual) and sauntered into a beautiful marbled lobby! Things were looking up for sure as what now appeared to be a floating hotel complete with movie theatre, restaurants and lounges completely upended the leaky, rusty visions that I had in my head.

Not only was it a higher spec that the Love Boat, but carved Viking heraldry was everywhere. Super cool.

As the engines revved and our departure time arrived, we all went up to the top deck in the brisk gloaming to watch as we slipped out of Aberdeen Harbour. Smiling groups huddled and camera phones flashed until the announcement came over the loudspeaker that we were heading into Gale Force 8 winds and should probably find some place to hunker down as soon as possible. Oh Nelly.

As this was the last boat going up to Shetland before Up Helly Aa, the very kind woman from the booking office strongly suggested that due to “crowding” ( I think she actually said “the mayhem of bodies lying all aboot”), I should spring the extra £22 to have a single bed in a shared female bunk of four. That woman deserves a medal.

The good news is that my bunk mates turned out to be a fabulous mother and daughter team of Americans, who were not only fun, not only helpful with photography tips, but like me – could talk paint off a wall! So for several rocky hours I chatted with my new friends about life, the universe and everything. A little after midnight we congratulated ourselves on being seasoned old salts for not getting sick and thought we really should get some rest and hit the lights. The bad news was that we didn’t realise was that we had just docked in Orkney and were now heading out to sea for real until our arrival in Lerwick in several hours time. I now know what it feels like to be put in a cocktail shaker for 8 hours.

Bruised and battered but alive, we finally landed in Shetland (OK I may have kissed the ground) and after dropping my new friends at their B&B I headed out of town to find mine.

http://visit.shetland.org/omaruru-bb

Never has a more welcome sight emerged from the morning mist than the Omaruru B&B. The name was rather curious and whenever I typed it into the search engine it kept coming up with a Game Lodge in Africa but I needed to be horizontal immediately so questions could wait.

There are times in life when everything just works out better than you could have hoped, and that is exactly what happened with I met the Erica & Bryan Pearson, the fabulous owners of the Omaruru B&B.

http://www.omaruru-game-lodge.com/sites/en/index.html

A few years earlier, these two native Shetlanders took up the suggestion of a friend to visit his home country of Namibia ( like you do). They decided if they were going to have such a special trip, they may as well take the opportunity to get married while they were there, which is exactly what they did. They did so at a Lodge called Omaruru and in return named their new venture back home after that special place.

Anyway, back on Shetland my exhaustion was getting the better of me. Whilst Bryan showed me to my room and I dropped off my bags, Erica was busy preparing this most welcome sight of a hot cooked breakfast replete with fabulous views. Ten weary steps later and I was asleep for the rest of the day.

Now let me just tell you how above and beyond these guys went in hospitality. Upon hearing about my project to document the Up Helly Aa celebrations and Shetland foods, they:

called their friend and stayed up late in the evening to let me ask a ton of ridiculous questions all about the festival,
gave me a heads up of all the places to be before the crowds gathered so I could get good pictures, and
went to the Hospital the next morning to get me supplies to make a temporary cast so I could drive back home.

Let me explain. As previously stated, I have very wonky ankles, and after a full day running around hillsides of cobblestone following the morning processions, standing in the lashing rain literally soaking up the experience of the galley burnings, and enjoying serving soup and watching the madness of the Halls until 3 am I went to my car to get more batteries for my camera. En route, I stepped into a very deep water-filled pothole thus dousing myself in freezing water and twisting my already strained ankle.

That was my signal to head back to the Omaruru for a hot shower and cosy sleep. (Well that was the plan.) Being newly renovated, the en suites were fitted with snazzy wet rooms. After being soaked and frozen in at least 3 different cycles throughout the day, it was all I could do to stand shivering in the warm shower to try to shake the chill. Shower done, dressing gown on, I had just gone back in for a fresh glass of water, when the tiny incline of the wet room proved too much for distressed ankle and I went down in a heap.

Do you know when you can just feel every tendon in a section of your body rip all at once? Yep, it was a doozy. So there I was, four paws down in a world of hurt, in the middle of the night on a remote island having the biggest party of the year amidst a hurricane. I gritted my teeth, gathered my strength and hopped across the room to fling myself onto the bed. A single fleeting moment of relief was dashed as the angle I had hit the bed had popped the slats out of their sockets. Yes indeedy, I had broken the bed and found myself packed in a pile of blankets and mattress slung hammock-style wedged within the bed frame. A quick scan revealed I was warm and my leg was elevated, and I decided anything else could be sorted in the morning.

So, stone-cold sober and all alone I had managed to recreate a scene reminiscent of my younger wilder youth. But morning dawned brightly and another wonderful breakfast and medical supplies provided by the Hostess with the Mostest Erica, and I set out for some sight seeing around the mainland before heading off to the ferry. Unfortunately whilst I could drive, I couldn’t actually walk, so all the following photos had to be shot from my car. There was so much more I wanted to see, and I was only able to swing by a few so I guess I will just have to go back!

There was the Iron Age settlement of Clickimin Broch,

the atmospheric Scalloway Castle,

and of course, loads of Shetland Ponies.

It really was such an adventure full of wonderful sites and people that you really should put Sheltand on your places to visit. And if you do, be sure to call try out the Omaruru B&B and heavens above, get yourself to Up Helly Aa at least once in your life!

Apr 06, 2014 | 1 comment View Post

Up Helly Aa – Music & Halls

This is going to be very different kind of post for me as all the images are actually video clips, but I hope that the format will give you a wee peek through the looking glass to the other side of Up Helly Aa. I must confess I did pinch these from YouTube as I was video-less at this time last year, and still photos just would not do this madness justice.

From the period of 17th century to the late 19th century, Lerwick enjoyed/endured many of the old Yule traditions of mischief and misrule, with Up Hella Aa signifying the last night and climax of the season. Many of these these activities included significant damage to property as rowdy young men would break windows, tar doorways and even launch dead cats from canons (good times..good times). To cover their tracks, pranksters would often disguise themselves or at the very least cover their faces to avoid the obvious fact that in a very small community everyone knows everyone else.

In the early 19th century some bright spark had the great idea that if they took a barrel (of which they had plenty as this was during the herring boom), filled it with tar, lit it on fire and dragged it through the narrow streets of the town, it was sure to be a huge hit. And it was…for some, not so much for the wealthy merchants whose homes and shops were often on the receiving of the damage. Laws were passed to abolish this practice but were mostly ignored. At some point in mid century the barrel was replaced with a crate from easier dragging.

About the time that the great and good of Lerwick had had it with the annual debauchery, an ancient document covering the history of the islands under Nordic rule between the 9th and the 15th centuries was first translated into English. This magnificent document known as The Orkneyinga Saga (a great read) utterly captured the imagination and re-ignited pride in the islander’s Viking heritage. C’est viola, many of the destructive elements of Yuletime mis-rule were re-interpreted in more socially acceptable practices to reflect the more noble elements of their fierce and brave forefathers. Everybody was happy.

For the Viking elements, songbooks and sheet music were written to craft the new traditions and are sung heartily throughout the day and night by the Jarl Squad. The outfits took shape and the galley boat was created as a focal point to gather around and of course, set on fire!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRV9fl-xj10

Here is what the official Up Helly Aa Song (with accompanying words) sounds like with the Brass Band. ( Just click on the Youtube link). Very rousing stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZc50wnOUfY

But here is the fantastic Stevie and his Jarl Squad. They keep this amount of energy up as the sing…all day and all night!

Peg’s Video – Galley Song

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FODfZ9t5InU

We caught up with the Jarl Squad later at about 4:30 and the museum. This is my friend Peg’s video and boy – they were still going strong!

So, while the very outward public display is all Viking, the elements of disguise, mischief and light-hearted misrule are embraced by the Squad’s performances in the Halls. Each Squad has to submit their idea to the Up Helly Aa committee months in advance to ensure there are no duplicates – for this year or any from the past. Most of the themes have some inside joke or reference that would be clear to those within the community. Others…well, you be the judge.

Remember, these guys have to perform this AT LEAST 12 times throughout the night at each of the Halls. They also have to keep their faces covered and can not disgrace themselves or their squad, all while imbibing a good amount of drink and being carted around in the back of empty moving vans between locations. All of the Hall have bands that perform between the Squads to give everyone a chance to dance and the Hostesses of the Halls have plenty of food handy to keep everyone going until 8:00 am. Wednesday is a holiday for all!

Gaz Vadar and the Bad Boy Stormtroopers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jqVh1B-_FA

Now, brace yourself, this is where things get good and crazy, but these performances by the Squads are every bit as much of Up Helly Aa as the Vikings and Galley. This is a clip that is by far one of the most well done skits I could find online. Not to shabby eh?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-N-1JtCygI

These guys are a bit more the norm of the type of routine that you are likely to see.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8p8RLLTGfo

And then some…well, they are about what you would expect from a a bunch of blokes charged with coming up with a dance routine with probably minimal effort. Also, I have never seen such such a wide array of man-size fluffy animal suits in my life. Again, google Lerwick, Shetland and just see how in tarnation one wee place so far in the middle of the North Atlantic can be home to such madness!

To only see the grand Viking element of the celebration and miss this unbelievably bizarre all night party would be like going to a wedding and missing out on the reception . I cannot wait to get back there again as soon as possible!!!!

Jan 28, 2014 | 1 comment View Post

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