Category: Festivals & Events

Up Helly Aa – Music & Halls

This is going to be  very different kind of post for me as all the images are actually video clips, but I hope that the format will give you a wee peek through the looking glass to the other side of Up Helly Aa. I must confess I did pinch these from YouTube as I was video-less at this time last year, and still photos just would not do this madness justice.

From the period of 17th century to the late 19th century, Lerwick enjoyed/endured many of the old Yule traditions of mischief and misrule, with Up Hella Aa signifying the last night and climax of the season.  Many of these these activities included significant damage to property as rowdy young men would break windows, tar doorways and even launch dead cats from canons (good times..good times).   To cover their tracks,  pranksters would often disguise themselves or at the very least cover their faces to avoid the obvious fact that in a very small community everyone knows everyone else.

In the early 19th century some bright spark had the great idea that if they took a barrel (of which they had plenty as this was during the herring boom), filled it with tar, lit it on fire and dragged it through the narrow streets of the town,  it was sure to be a huge hit.  And it was…for some, not so much for the wealthy merchants whose homes and shops were often on the receiving of the damage.  Laws were passed to abolish this practice but were mostly ignored.  At some point in mid century the barrel was replaced with a crate from easier dragging.

About the time that the great and good of Lerwick had had it with the annual debauchery, an ancient document covering the history of the islands under Nordic rule between the 9th and the 15th centuries was first translated into English. This magnificent document known as The Orkneyinga Saga (a great read) utterly captured the imagination and re-ignited pride in the islander’s Viking heritage.  C’est viola, many of the destructive elements of Yuletime mis-rule were re-interpreted in more socially acceptable practices to reflect the more noble elements of their fierce and brave forefathers.  Everybody was happy.

For the Viking elements, songbooks and sheet music were written to craft the new traditions and are sung heartily throughout the day and night by the Jarl Squad. The outfits took shape and the galley boat was created as a focal point to gather around and of course, set on fire!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRV9fl-xj10

Here is what the official Up Helly Aa Song (with accompanying words) sounds like with the Brass Band. ( Just click on the Youtube link).  Very rousing stuff.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZc50wnOUfY

But here is the fantastic Stevie and his Jarl Squad.  They keep this amount of energy up as the sing…all day and all night!

Peg’s Video – Galley Song

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FODfZ9t5InU

We caught up with the Jarl Squad later at about 4:30 and the museum.  This is my friend Peg’s video and boy – they were still going strong!

So, while the very outward public display is all Viking, the elements of disguise, mischief and light-hearted misrule are embraced by the Squad’s performances in the Halls.  Each Squad has to submit their idea to the Up Helly Aa committee months in advance to ensure there are no duplicates – for this year or any from the past.  Most of the themes have some inside joke or reference that would be clear to those within the community.  Others…well, you be the judge.

Remember, these guys have to perform this AT LEAST 12 times throughout the night at each of the Halls.  They also have to keep their faces covered and can not disgrace themselves or their squad, all while imbibing a good amount of drink and being carted around in the back of empty moving vans between locations.  All of the Hall have bands that perform between the Squads to give everyone a chance to dance and the Hostesses of the Halls have plenty of food handy to keep everyone going until 8:00 am.  Wednesday is a holiday for all!

Gaz Vadar and the Bad Boy Stormtroopers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jqVh1B-_FA

Now, brace yourself, this is where things get good and crazy, but these performances by the Squads are every bit as much of Up Helly Aa as the Vikings and Galley.   This is a clip that is by far one of the most well done skits I could find online.  Not to shabby eh?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-N-1JtCygI

 These guys are a bit more the norm of the type of routine that you are likely to see.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8p8RLLTGfo

And then some…well, they are about what you would expect from a a bunch of blokes charged with coming up with a dance routine with probably minimal effort.  Also, I have never seen such such a wide array of man-size fluffy animal suits in my life.  Again, google Lerwick, Shetland and just see how in tarnation one wee place so far in the middle of the North Atlantic can be home to such madness!

To only see the grand Viking element of the celebration and miss this unbelievably bizarre all night party would be like going to a wedding and missing out on the reception .  I cannot wait to get back there again as soon as possible!!!!

Up Helly Aa – Introduction

There just ain’t no getting around the fact that this post is going to be a doozy!  I tried, I have really, really tried to get the story, the images and the adventure that is Up Helly Aa into a single blog post but it is just not possible.  So instead, there will be four; Introduction, Procession & Galley Burning,  Music & Halls, and then Shetland’s Gems.  So without further ado, please let me introduce you to Europe’s Biggest Fire Festival and the most visually stunning thing I have ever had the privilege to bear to witness to… Up Helly Aa!

One year ago today I packed myself onto a ferry to take a verrrrryyyyyy rough 12 hours boat ride to reach the group of islands half-way between mainland Scotland and Norway known as Shetland. Even though I was a bundle of nerves and missing my babies…I was on an adventure and couldn’t have been more excited.

Up Helly Aa is the kind of event that you hear about when folks get talking about various tall tales, and even most Scots only ever see the odd photo or two of a Viking galley engulfed in flames on the BBC website. So it was all I could do not to pinch myself as I found myself catching the first glimpse of the hand crafted galley through the gathering crowds on  their march to the Market Cross to begin the festivities.

Most people just think of Up Helly Aa as a fire festival where the men of Lerwick dress as Vikings and set fire to a galley. That in and of itself would be groovy enough, but it is actually a fantastically choreographed series of events, displays and performances that embrace several chapters of the island’s history and reaffirms the communities bonds in an annual raucous and good-natured party.

For starters, the men of Lerwick (there are other Up Helly Aa celebrations throughout Shetland but Lerwick is the biggest by far) organise themselves into Squads.  These are groups of friends centered around work or family that can range in size from about 16-25 and are primarily social groups (similar to the Crewes of Mardi Gras). The number of Squads varies but there are usually in the region of about 45 Squads at any given time.

Every year since 1882 one man assumes the title of  Guizer Jarl (meaning Earl or Chieftain) but he may have been selected for that role years in advance.  It is his squad that will take top honours and don the bespoke Viking regalia and build the galley to be set aflame.  To be selected as the Guizer Jarl (guizer is a term that means in disguise) is the equivalent of being selected as MVP/ Man of the Match, Prom King & winning an Oscar all rolled into one.  It is HUGE.  It is so big that the people of Lerwick can name  all of the Guizers Jarls and which year they held that honour similar to how others might collect sports cards.  In addition to his regular squad, the Guizer Jarl can invite others friends and family to join – an incredible once in a lifetime honour – swelling the size of the Jarl Squad to around 50-70!

Up Helly Aa is held on the last Tuesday of January and the day begins with the presentation of “The Bill”.  This hand painted placard is a very tongue in cheek proclamation of the Guizer Jarl that is loaded with jokes and jibes of people and events within the community for the past year.  These can cut very close to the bone but it also quite a big deal to make it into the Bill.  It is always signed with the credo “We Axe for What We Want”.  I wanted to go and see the actual unveiling but was gently informed that “it usually happens around 5:00 am by lads that have been up all night drinking, and well…it’s not what you would call a spectator sport”!

While some aspects of what has become Up Helly Aa go back several hundreds of years, much of the modern celebration was developed in the 1880s.  As such, the music and songs (of which there are loads) date to that era as well.  The Brass Band is integral part of the celebration and it is when they strike up that the people of Lerwick know that Up Helly Aa has begun at last.

The Brass Band leads the jubilant Jarl Squad ( who have all grown big bushy beards in the past year) past the Bill with an endless chorus of “ARRRRGGGGHH” emitting from the men as they raise the axes aloft.

There is a Junior Jarl Squad as well and there are right in the festivities with their own Junior Jarl. Later in the evening they will lead their own procession of boys squads and set fire to a smaller galley.

But for the boys, men and spectators alike, the atmosphere is incredible.  They Jarl Squad look like all their Christmases have come at once and they are having a ball! They are on display and loving every minute of it as they head down to their photo call at the Bressay Ferry Terminal.

While the Brass Band leads the procession the Pipe & Drum Band bring up the rear.  The amount of music, cheering and shouting all ringing off the wall of the narrow street just brings the visceral excitement to an amazing level….and this is all before 10:00 am!

The Jarl Squad climb aboard their short-lived but beautifully made galley and pose for a fair few rounds of photos – still shouting “AAARRRGGGHH” throughout.

This is the Guizer Jarl himself, Stevie Grant pictured here enjoying the gloriously bright clear morning (it didn’t last).

After the group picture, everyone breaks up for a short chance to see family and friends and have a few more photos taken.  The break doesn’t last long as there is a serious schedule of processing and visiting of schools and hospitals to attend.

The Viking costumes are just amazing in their craftsmanship and detail, and the members of the Jarl Squad are just proud as peacocks to be wearing them.  When I asked this member of the Jarl Squad (Andrew Aiken) for his picture, he happily obliged but his female companions just rolled their eyes and told me to “not encourage him”, poor thing! (I believe it can be quite a long year for the partners and families of those in the Jarl Squad.)

With their break over, the Procession reconvenes to march out to a full schedule of stops and visits.  Bringing the whole show of music, songs and shouting with them at every stop.

While it is still a school day, absolutely everybody comes out to welcome the Jarl Squad and cheers them on for this first chapter in the festivities.

Guy Fawkes Night

“Remember, remember the 5th of November, the gunpowder treason and plot.  I know of no reason why the gunpowder treason should ever be forgot.”

Tonight is Guy Fawkes Night, more widely known as Bonfire Night, where people up and down Britain gather in the frosty blackness of a November night to celebrate the joyous relief of an event that never happened.

2009 Bonfire Night in Edinburgh, edinburgh-inspiringcapital.com

The story in a nutshell is this; in 1603 a group of conspirators got together and planned to blow up the Houses of Parliament in London by stacking barrels of gunpowder in the cellar.  The fuse lighter-to be, one Guy or rather “Guido” Fawkes, was caught, tortured and while scheduled to be hung, drawn and quartered, managed to jump to death from the steps of the gallows.  Everyone involved was gathered up and a major act of terrorism was averted.  Phew!

However,  as a few of the juicier details of the foiled plot come to light (no pun intended), it will come as no wonder why over 400 years later people are still marking this day with celebration.  Here is what went down, even if you have no interest in history whatsoever most people will be vaguely familiar with this lady, Queen Elizabeth I of England.

Queen Elizabeth I

For quick recap, she was the daughter of Henry the VIII  of England and  his second wife Anne Boleyn.  Now, I want everyone to take a good look at her and understand three main things of great importance.

1.) This is the very LAST person to exclusively hold the title of Queen of England, from this point onwards the crowns of England and Scotland are joined in the United Kingdoms of Britain (Ireland later  joined the Union in 1800).  The current Queen Elizabeth IS NOT the Queen of England, rather her title is Queen Elizabeth the Second, by the Grace of God Queen of this Realm and of Her other Realms and Territories, Head of the Commonwealth, Defender of the Faith, and it irks Scots tremendously when she – and any other British monarchs after 1603 – are referred to as such, particularly by news media, politicians and in films.

2.) Henry the VIII ditched the Catholic religion in England to marry Elizabeth’s mother Anne (she is the one who Henry later had beheaded – lovely) thus rendering England a Protestant country.  Unlike many other European countries at the time England did not abandon Catholicism on the grounds of a deep theological revolt a la Martin Luther in Germany, rather Henry just want to dump his first wife but the Pope wouldn’t let him.

And finally, 3.) Queen Elizabeth I dies childless (i.e. without and heir).

So say it with me, Queen Elizabeth I was….ENGLISH…..PROTESTANT…..CHILDLESS.

Mary Queen of Scots

Now, here we have Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth’s cousin.  The two Queens had a long and tense relationship which ended in Mary’s imprisonment and ultimate execution by Elizabeth on the count of high treason.  Obviously there is a whole lot more to both Mary and Elizabeth’s lives, realms and interactions with each other but will wrap things up by stating that,

Mary was…SCOTTISH…..CATHOLIC……..HAD A SON ON THE THRONE OF SCOTLAND.

James I and VI (b.1565, ruled (Scotland) 1566 – 1625 and (England) 1603-25)

This is Mary’s son James VI of Scotland. He is SCOTTISH….but PROTESTANT…and THE CLOSEST HEIR TO THE THRONE OF ENGLAND.

 While James had been on the throne of Scotland since 1566, he did not know if he would definitely gain the crown of England until after Mary’s death in 1603.  If you have 3 minutes our ubiquitous voice of Scotland, Neil Oliver can explain way better than I can just how big of a deal this is,  if you click right here on James IV Becomes King of England. (Just be sure to click on the reverse arrow to return here.)

If you don’t have 3 minutes James IV of Scotland becomes the FIRST JOINT MONARCH of the UNITED KINGDOMS OF BRITAIN .  He was crowned as James VI of Scotland but as James I of England (and Wales) and Ireland.  So in this moment the concepts of  “UNITED KINGDOM“, “GREAT BRITAIN” and even soon after the “UNION FLAG” come into being, remember this is 1603.  The crowns are joined by peaceful succession NOT conquest.

James I & VI (just the First as far as the English are concerned) is welcomed warmly in England and pledges to relax some of the persecution that the Catholics had suffered under Queen Elizabeth. The Gunpowder Plot comes into being just two years into James’ rule in England in 1605, and the vast majority of accounts of this plot state the main (and only) motivation was along Catholic and Protestant lines.

True, the new King did falter in his balancing act of appeasing the more Puritanical of the Protestants of his court by heating up the trouble with Catholics, particularly at the Hampton Court Conference of January 1604.  It was here that he began to openly express hostility towards Catholicism and by February all of the previous priests had been expelled and recusancy fine were reintroduced.

Some folks began to snap.

Here is a very well-known engraving of the conspirators behind the Gunpowder Plot.  Some had money, some access, some brains but they were all….ENGLISH…..CATHOLIC….and HATED THE NEW KING.

The plot was to wipe out the King and his entire court on the opening of the House of Parliament and install his ten-year old daughter Elizabeth on the throne to be dominated by a new Catholic power structure.  But as in most big moments in history, the Catholic/ Protestant divide may not have been the whole story.

 BBC Scotland Gunpowder Plot

 This clip is just under 6 minutes long but will highlight a totally different dimension of this age-old plot.  Just click of the BBC Scotland link above to access and don’t forget to hit the reverse arrow to return to this post.  If you don’t have viewing time, suffice to say that Neil Oliver puts forth the theory that this plot was nothing short of an attempt at complete ethnic cleansing of Scots in London.  (I bet you can find those six minutes now, huh?)

Whatever the motivation be it religious, political, tribal or all of the above, thankfully a serious bloodbath was thwarted. (Except for the conspirators who ended up plenty bloody indeed.)  The immediate legacy of the averted crisis was that as the news of the plot spread people were encouraged to light bonfires to celebrate the King’s foiled assassination, and that an Act of Parliament designated the 5th of November as a day  to give thanks to “the joyful day of deliverance” from the near disaster.

On the first anniversary of the plot  in 1606, a sermon of thanks was held at the court of  King James VI & I (later of the King James Bible fame), that was to become the origins of the “Remember, Remember the 5th of November” nursery rhyme.

Mask from “V for Vendetta”

Know let’s be honest, whenever anyone hears that rhyme today the immediate trigger is an image Natalie Portman’s shaven head, the above mask and masses of swarming crowds gathering outside the (current) Houses of Parliament.  The chilling film “V for Vandetta” came to the screens in 2006 and portrays a masked terrorist combats the totalitarian regime of a futuristic London.  This film used this Guy Fawkes riff to great effect, and up until very, very recently the mask of “V” was a bit of a cult movie thang….until the recent Occupy movements began in New York and then in London.

The “V” mask has now been adopted as a symbol of the Occupy London protest in response to what is seen as the new tyranny of the markets and the general lack of accountability of their corporations.

Occupy London Protesters

What is particularly eerie is when huge amounts of people wear these masks backwards covering the rear of their heads.   Whilst this leaves their faced free for things like breathing and chanting from behind the photos show a just a sea of masks.  Very effective in its unnerving visual.

Part 1 of 8 of \”Exploding the Gunpowder Plot\”

 But here is a crucial point, the plot didn’t succeed and “V for Vendetta” is a work of fiction.  There has been much debate throughout history as to whether the gunpowder would have worked even if it had been lit, and even then, would it have killed the King and achieved its goal? Well for the 400th anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot, Richard Hammond of “Top Gear” fame goes on an absolutely AMAZING journey of exploration to answer that question.

Part history, part techie thriller this program (which can be seen in its entirety on YouTube in 8 segments of about 8 – 10 minutes a piece, see above link for the first of the instalments) does an amazing job of researching just what would have been the destructive and subsequently human toll had this plot succeeded.  I found this thrilling and humbling to realise this could very easily have been the moment that altered the British History more monumentally than anything else – and was really only just narrowly avoided.  Really fantastic information that will shake you up for sure. (Think 9/11 and the French Revolution in a one stop shop)

So for the 405th time since the day the Gunpowder Plot was foiled,  join all of us around the country in blasting our skies full or fireworks in commemoration of the blast that never was – whether you are in London,

a village green

Sparkling Away at Pittencrieff Park 2011

or just waving some sparklers in your local park or back garden (safety tip: fleece mittens melt when in close contact to sparks),

Have a Safe &  Happy Bonfire Night!

Children’s Gala Days

As summer approaches and the school year draws to a close ( yes, we are still in school), many towns and villages prepare for their summer festivals or Gala Days.  The activities, dates and traditions vary regionally throughout Scotland, but almost everywhere has a local summer party that can last a day or up to a week.   Here in Dunfermline we have the Children’s Gala, which is the largest and oldest celebration of its kind.

Statue of Carnegie in the Glen

Originally organised by the Dunfermline Co-Operative Society in 1902, the Gala’s Organisation and Funding was sponsored by Andrew Carnegie  and his wife via The Carnegie Trust from 1903 through the mid 1970s.  Each year a parade of children representing their primary schools and some local bands would parade down the medieval high street and enter the newly accessible ground of Pittencrieff Park, known locally as The Glen.

Gala Day 1972 by Ken Spowart - gifted to Dunfermline Museum

These were grand affairs  and much cherished by all.  After the parade finished upon entrance into the park, a lunch was provided and an afternoon of games and entertainment rounded off the event.

Thought to be the earliest known photo of Dunfermline Children's Gala - date unknown

 Please bear in mind that at t he turn of the 20th century this area’s main income was from mills, coal mines and farming, so an event on this scale – paid for in full –  would have been a highlight of the calendar for everyone.

Children in the Dunfermline Gala 1954

 

 The Carnegie Trust had to withdraw its funding for the event in the 1970s and the organisation and fundraising switched to the larger community.  Each year the Gala Committee and hundreds of volunteers raise funds, organise and host the Gala to keep the tradition alive.  Last year over 3,000 primary school children took part and over 15,000 people watched the parade and entertainment in the Glen.

Mermaid in the 2011 Gala

This year’s theme was “Under The Sea” and I have to say I was very impressed with the array of mermaids, undersea creatures,  bands and performers.

Gathering for the Big Event

Everyone who was to take part in the parade gathered in a parking lot just off the parade route.  I tried very hard to prise my terrified children from each of my legs just long enough to capture some sense of the mounting excitement.

Mermaids on stilts - very impressive!

The costumes were fantastic, the bands resplendent in their regalia and each child was given a balloon to create a sea of colour and energy on an otherwise grey day.

Giant Deep Sea Divers

There was a great mix of samba bands, these drummers – on stilts – with their heads covered – walking downhill –  on a cobbled road – drumming out some sick beats (like ya do), and of course…

Bagpipe bands.  Because you just can’t do anything in Scotland without the bagpipes!

My Big Girl's First Parade

Finally, it was my  Pirate Queen’s turn to join in the fun.  After securing the hand and support of her friend Lucy she marched all the way down the High Street for the first time with her school – Go Ladybug!

 

View from beneath statue of Carnegie looking back up the High Street

The crowd poured into the Glen and the energy shifted from cheering to congratulating the brave schoolkids, and enjoying the afternoon’s festivities.

 

Enjoying Her First Gala Day Picnic

As a part of the parade each child get a packed lunch, drink and some treats in their goody bag.  It was lovely to enjoy a day full of so many firsts for us but that also continues on our communities’ traditions that have lasted well over a hundred years.

And then the heavens opened and we went home for hot chocolate – ah well!